HomeFood + WineIn the kitchen with James Brinklow

In the kitchen with James Brinklow

James Brinklow has created a casual Italian-style deli in the heart of Hahndorf.

For James Brinklow, simplicity is key.

It’s a philosophy that helped him secure a Two Hat rating for the Lane Vineyard restaurant and one that follows him into his kitchen at home.

“I’ve always been an advocate of really simple food – simple flavours,” he says.

“Really keep it clean … use everything seasonally and if it’s no good don’t use it.”

James, who’s recently opened his own delicatessen at Hahndorf, “fell” into the hospitality industry in his teen years, cooking “King George whiting for old ladies” at The Pioneer Room in the old David Jones building.

Drawn by the social side of the industry, he began an apprenticeship after finishing high school and has since worked in some of Adelaide’s best known establishments, including the Adelaide Wine Centre and Auge Ristorante, which was named Australia’s Restaurant and Catering Best Italian Restaurant under his leadership in 2009.

The pressures of the commercial environment haven’t taken away from his love of cooking and he can be found in his kitchen at home, where he’s the principal chef.

About 10 years in to his career, he contemplated a change to either landscape architecture or sports journalism.

But the concept of studying at university was unpalatable and instead he worked his way to the Lane Vineyard, where, as head chef, he aimed to showcase “simplicity at its best”.

The philosophy worked, with the restaurant securing a Two Chef Hat rating by the Australian Good Food Guide, during 12 years at the winery.

Somewhat removed from the fine dining scene, his current venture, Ernest Delicatessen, is all about creating a casual Italian-style deli in the heart of Hahndorf.

While the venue also offers a breakfast and lunch menu and is open for dinner on Friday nights, James has a vision for take-away grazing boxes, take home meals and fresh milk and olive oil on tap, alongside the existing rows of pickled vegetables, condiments, tinned fish, Italian biscuits and cabinet full of grab-and-go deli-style sandwiches and focaccias.

“The idea is literally to be the deli that everyone can go to grab the stuff they need,” he says.

“We’ll have grazing boxes and all sorts of stuff – bread as well.

“We’re probably going to put a tap in that’s got milk, so people can come in and buy milk.

“There’s a really good system through Fleurieu Milk that you can use … and get a large olive oil drum in here … and people can come and buy as much as they like, sell it by quantity, so that’s the idea.”

James wants to keep it as casual as possible, but it’s still built on the same foundation of high quality, fresh produce, influenced by his passion for Italian food.

Opening halfway through last summer, the venture has been a journey of ups and downs. But the pressures of the commercial environment haven’t taken away from his love of cooking and he can be found in his kitchen at home, where he’s the principal chef.

Like at The Lane and Ernest Delicatessen, James keeps it simple at home.

“I don’t like to mash flavours together too much – I just like to make sure everything works well with each other,” he says.

Seasonal ingredients are key, he says, which is all about using food when it’s at its best in order to maximise flavours.

“You see peaches at the shop in winter and it’s coming from America,” he says. “If you like peaches that much, sure, but don’t think they’re going to be that good – they’ve travelled halfway around the world probably in a room pumped full of chemicals to keep them from ripening while they’re on their way over, so I think you’re better off, literally, finding what’s good around you.”

For those to whom the kitchen is a foreign place, he has some advice.

“It’s definitely not that hard,” he says.

“If I can do it anyone can.

“If it’s following a recipe, just follow the recipe.

And for those who are looking to be a little more adventurous, he says reading up on food and giving it a go is key.

“If you think it will work, try it.”

Previous article
Next article

LATEST POSTS

Betty & Daniel

Daniel Tretola & Betty Dennes. A coincidental holiday to the Middle East marked the beginning of Daniel Tretola and Betty Dennes's romance. The couple, who had known...

Growing a career in cherries

Among the rural vistas of the Montacute Valley, sprouting fruit heralds the start of cherry season in the Adelaide Hills. As one of the closest places...

Stubborn survival

Five years have passed since the deadly bushfires tore through the Adelaide Hills on a hot and windy day, claiming one life, destroying 85 homes...

Building beauty from ashes

When David Bowley went to check on his vineyards on December 19, 2019, they were the picture of every winemaker’s dream. Gum trees dotted the surrounding...

Other stories

Editor’s note – Summer 2024/25

Welcome to the summer 2024/25 edition of the Hills Wanderer! If you're anything like me, you'll be looking forward to big bowls of fresh Adelaide...

Betty & Daniel

Daniel Tretola & Betty Dennes. A coincidental holiday to the Middle East marked the beginning of Daniel Tretola and Betty Dennes's romance. The couple, who had...

Growing a career in cherries

Among the rural vistas of the Montacute Valley, sprouting fruit heralds the start of cherry season in the Adelaide Hills. As one of the closest...

Tickle Tank

Narrow paths wind between lush garden beds, water splashes over mosaic fountains and colourful sculpted benches are tucked away in shady, serene corners. For owner...

Stubborn survival

Five years have passed since the deadly bushfires tore through the Adelaide Hills on a hot and windy day, claiming one life, destroying 85...